We spent the last week in the San Juan Mountains, north of Pagosa Springs, on the west side of the Divide. We were camping on National Forest Campgrounds. One of the campgrounds had full hookups, so we stayed there a few days, and then moved up to the reservoir. I did a little fishing and caught all the fish we cared to eat! One rainbow trout was over 15 inches long, and was more than Madeline and I could eat in one stting.
This area is one in which I camped with my family over 40 years ago. I wondered if it had changed much and was pleased to discover it was still as wild and unspoiled as ever. I wonder if my children remeber camping there. It was our first camping vacation in Colorado.
The muntains there consist of layers of lava which are some times level and sometimes tilted. This makes for very striking mountains with many big square blocks -- sometimes building pyramids -- sometimes making structures resembling castles and walled cities, and many other delightful structures. One evening, as we watched the sunset, Madeline and I fashioned names based on what the mountain reminded us of.
Monday, July 31, 2006
Sunday, July 30, 2006
San Juan Mountains, North of Pagosa Springs
Sunset at Williams Reservoir. We nicknamed the mountian in the background, Tyrannosaur
Mountain. The two beds of lava rock serve as teeth!
The mountain behind the road, we called Pyramid Mountain. This is fairly typical one of the San Juan Mountains in this area. The mountains are composed of layers of lava rock that has gradually eroded. Some mountains, such as this one, have a little cap of lava on the top.
Mountain. The two beds of lava rock serve as teeth!
The mountain behind the road, we called Pyramid Mountain. This is fairly typical one of the San Juan Mountains in this area. The mountains are composed of layers of lava rock that has gradually eroded. Some mountains, such as this one, have a little cap of lava on the top.
Thursday, July 20, 2006
July 20, 2006 Escapees and Traveling On
We arrived in Hatch, Utah to attend a rally of our Escapees RV Club. There were about 50 units there. The main activity was driving on the back roads on either 4-wheel drive vehicles or ATV’s. Madeline and I took our little Tracker on several trips. We also led a group on a geocaching trip. There are many, many geocaches in the Hatch area. It was fun to meet old friends again and participate in group activities. There was lots of good food and good company
A high spot on the trip was a weekend visit by our daughter Diana. She spent one day 4-wheeling with us, and another day visiting Bryce Canyon.
We left Hatch and are headed east. We revisited Monument Valley, and are now in Pagosa Springs. We may stay here a few days and journey up into the San Juan Mountains. Or perhaps we will move over the other side of the divide to South Fork.
A high spot on the trip was a weekend visit by our daughter Diana. She spent one day 4-wheeling with us, and another day visiting Bryce Canyon.
We left Hatch and are headed east. We revisited Monument Valley, and are now in Pagosa Springs. We may stay here a few days and journey up into the San Juan Mountains. Or perhaps we will move over the other side of the divide to South Fork.
Tuesday, July 11, 2006
July 10, 2006 - South Pass and the Oregon, Mormon and California Trails
Last week we moved on from Lander, Wyoming on down to Fort Bridger, Wyoming and eventually to Hatch, Utah. This trip took us up over South Pass, the point where many pioneers passed over the continental divide.
South Pass, although at respectable elevation, (7550 feet), is actually a fairly flat, high plateau -- treeless, and wind swept. Pioneer travelers had to leave the Sweetwater River and make what hopefully would be quick trip to the Big Sandy River. Many of the pioneers opted to take a short-cut, the Sublette Cutoff, a shortcut taken to reduce to time to get to Oregon, but chancy -- requiring 50 miles without water -- meaning it was necessary to carry sufficient water for oneself, and livestock, and to not getting lost. Death or at least loss of all possessions could and did happen. The short cut was taken to save time. The pioneers were anxious to cross the mountains to Oregon before winter set in.
Other hardships occurred on the Mormon Trail. Many of the Mormon pioneers, -- some of them immigrants from Europe, would pack all their possessions in two wheeled carts and pull these carts all the way to Salt Lake City. On several occasions pioneer Mormons got trapped in bad weather, and were rescued by earlier settlers form Salt Lake City.
Enormous numbers of Americans emigrated west in the 1800’s on the Oregon, Mormon and California trail. In fact the Western states were all settled by immigrants, many of them traveling under extremely dangerous circumstances. Many died. At South Pass and Fort Bridger, places now nearly deserted, were once the site of many people passing to new homes.
We need to remember we are a nation of immigrants, who have largely displaced the Native Americans, the original inhabitants. This should give us pause when we see today, when we see people who in very dangerous circumstance come to our country seeking an opportunity for a better life, much as were those who passing through South Pass and Fort Bridger, less than a hundred years ago.
South Pass, although at respectable elevation, (7550 feet), is actually a fairly flat, high plateau -- treeless, and wind swept. Pioneer travelers had to leave the Sweetwater River and make what hopefully would be quick trip to the Big Sandy River. Many of the pioneers opted to take a short-cut, the Sublette Cutoff, a shortcut taken to reduce to time to get to Oregon, but chancy -- requiring 50 miles without water -- meaning it was necessary to carry sufficient water for oneself, and livestock, and to not getting lost. Death or at least loss of all possessions could and did happen. The short cut was taken to save time. The pioneers were anxious to cross the mountains to Oregon before winter set in.
Other hardships occurred on the Mormon Trail. Many of the Mormon pioneers, -- some of them immigrants from Europe, would pack all their possessions in two wheeled carts and pull these carts all the way to Salt Lake City. On several occasions pioneer Mormons got trapped in bad weather, and were rescued by earlier settlers form Salt Lake City.
Enormous numbers of Americans emigrated west in the 1800’s on the Oregon, Mormon and California trail. In fact the Western states were all settled by immigrants, many of them traveling under extremely dangerous circumstances. Many died. At South Pass and Fort Bridger, places now nearly deserted, were once the site of many people passing to new homes.
We need to remember we are a nation of immigrants, who have largely displaced the Native Americans, the original inhabitants. This should give us pause when we see today, when we see people who in very dangerous circumstance come to our country seeking an opportunity for a better life, much as were those who passing through South Pass and Fort Bridger, less than a hundred years ago.
Thursday, July 06, 2006
July 6, 2006; Lander, WY
We have spent the last week, which included the Forth of July holiday, at Lander, Wyoming. Lander is a small town of about 6,000 people, located on the east side of the Wind River Mountains. It is about 60 miles west of Jeffery City - where I am told “Home on the Range” was written, about 40 miles northeast of South Pass - the historic pass where the Oregon Trail, Mormon Trail and California Trail crossed the continental divide, and 20 mile southwest of the Wind River Indian Reservation - home of the Shoshone and Arapaho Indian tribes.
Lander is a delightful small town. Wal-Mart and Home Depot have not arrived, so the town boasts several hardware and auto-part stores, two grocery stores, numerous small clothing stores, and a wonderful bookstore with a wonderful selection of soft covered books such as “Hours”, and “A Short History of Tractors in the Ukrainian”. (I just finished the latter novel, enjoyed and recommend it!). A newspaper is published in Lander, every Wednesday and Sunday. One can get the New York Times, sometimes. It comes in on the afternoon airplane, usually – but not always. If the Sunday edition does make it in on Sunday, you can probably get it on Monday and for sure on Tuesday. Lander is a very nice Western town that reminds me a lot of the way towns used to be decades ago. The pace is relaxed, and people are very friendly.
The Forth of July celebration was noteworthy. The mainstay of the celebration was a three-day rodeo with bull and bronco riding only on Sunday night. On the forth there was a parade. It had many of the things we often used to see in parades. The Legion marched and the high school band marched by There were Indians (real Indians) all dressed up in feathers, carrying a coup stick (I think) and of course an American flag. Then, as you would expect in the West --- Lots of people on horses – old people, young people, dressed-up people, authentic cowboys all dressed up with western hats and chaps, and three generations of one family, proudly riding bareback. An array of political candidates running for sheriff, state senator, councilman, etc drove by in trucks or convertibles. Finally there was an array of different types of vehicles, including Model A’s, old fire trucks, Cadillacs and Chevys from the fifties, and one iron-wheeled steam tractor using wood for fuel..
After the parade, we went to the city Park and enjoyed a barbeque of buffalo brats, beans and potato salad. There were a couple of musicians playing and singing folk and country songs. One of the musicians played a mean country fiddle, which reminded me of the terrific fiddlers we used to hear at square dances in New Hampshire when I was a teen.
That evening the end of the holiday was celebrated with fire works set off at the rodeo. We got a wonderful view of the fireworks from our RV. (The rodeo park was just over the hill.)
Lander is a delightful small town. Wal-Mart and Home Depot have not arrived, so the town boasts several hardware and auto-part stores, two grocery stores, numerous small clothing stores, and a wonderful bookstore with a wonderful selection of soft covered books such as “Hours”, and “A Short History of Tractors in the Ukrainian”. (I just finished the latter novel, enjoyed and recommend it!). A newspaper is published in Lander, every Wednesday and Sunday. One can get the New York Times, sometimes. It comes in on the afternoon airplane, usually – but not always. If the Sunday edition does make it in on Sunday, you can probably get it on Monday and for sure on Tuesday. Lander is a very nice Western town that reminds me a lot of the way towns used to be decades ago. The pace is relaxed, and people are very friendly.
The Forth of July celebration was noteworthy. The mainstay of the celebration was a three-day rodeo with bull and bronco riding only on Sunday night. On the forth there was a parade. It had many of the things we often used to see in parades. The Legion marched and the high school band marched by There were Indians (real Indians) all dressed up in feathers, carrying a coup stick (I think) and of course an American flag. Then, as you would expect in the West --- Lots of people on horses – old people, young people, dressed-up people, authentic cowboys all dressed up with western hats and chaps, and three generations of one family, proudly riding bareback. An array of political candidates running for sheriff, state senator, councilman, etc drove by in trucks or convertibles. Finally there was an array of different types of vehicles, including Model A’s, old fire trucks, Cadillacs and Chevys from the fifties, and one iron-wheeled steam tractor using wood for fuel..
After the parade, we went to the city Park and enjoyed a barbeque of buffalo brats, beans and potato salad. There were a couple of musicians playing and singing folk and country songs. One of the musicians played a mean country fiddle, which reminded me of the terrific fiddlers we used to hear at square dances in New Hampshire when I was a teen.
That evening the end of the holiday was celebrated with fire works set off at the rodeo. We got a wonderful view of the fireworks from our RV. (The rodeo park was just over the hill.)
Forth of July in Lander, WY
Fiddling at the Park
Bio-fuel -- run by wood!
Old Fire Truck
Very proud narive Americans, with flags and coup stick (I think it is)
Saturday, July 01, 2006
On and About the Bighorn Mountains
We left Colorado in route to Wyoming and the Bighorn Mountains. Our first stop was at Kaycee, Wyoming. After passing the Hole in Wall Bar, Butch Cassidy Motel, etc., we asked if the Hole in Wall, site of the one-time headquarters of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid was actually nearby. The answer was, yes, it was a place easy to get to.
I have been trying any number of years to visit the Hole in the Wall, to see where Butch Cassidy and his pals hung out. The first time I attempted it was years ago, but what with obvious four-wheel drive roads, and my Oldsmobile compact car, it was obvious that I was driving into an untenable situation.
This year, we now had four-wheel drive, high clearance, and lots of time, it seemed an opportunity to try again. It turns out, it is not an easy task to visit the Hole-in-the-Wall. Although everyone in the Kaycee area is very proud that this is Butch Cassidy country, and nearly every other motel, bar, or restaurant is either has Hole-in-the-Wall or Butch Cassidy in the name, actually few people can give you accurate directions how to get
there.
The first day we set out, with what we thought were clear directions. After driving about 30 miles on dirt road, we took a right on a road to "Hole in-the Wall' Campground. Well, after driving several miles on dirt roads, we found no campground and no Hole-in the-Wall. We finally drove by a rancher's wife getting mail from her mailbox. After inquiring we found that we were on the way to the Dull Knife Battlefield, but Hole-in the Wall was the other direction.
We reversed our way, and followed new directions. Our road passed through private property, with lots of warning sides to stay on the road. . The road deteriorated to a track, demanding four-wheel drive. We drove up the side of a mountain, avoiding deep ruts and high stones in the road. We eventually found a sign to the "Outlaw Cave". We got out and walked about, and finally peered down to the bottom of a canyon, where we could see a steep trail leading to a series of shallow caves. The Outlaw Cave - probably; ---- Butch Cassidy's Hole-in-the-Wall -certainly not. We drove about a bit, saw some
badly vandalized Indian pictographs in a shallow overhang, and started to return home. As we went down the mountain, we looked across the valley, where there was a long red cliff, extending some miles, both north and south. Thus we concluded was the Red Wall, where the Hole-in-the-Wall might be found. However, there was no public road or any other obvious to get to the Red Wall to search for Hole-in-the-Wall. By this time it became obvious that the location of the site in the atlas was in error.
Back to camp, we returned for further inquiries to get new directions. The new directions were that Hole in the Wall, could only be reached by an entirely different series of roads, which would entail a 40 to 50-mile trip (one-way), most of it on dirt road, with about 15 miles requiring a high clearance vehicle, 4-wheel drive, and not under any conditions to be attempted after a rain (would get stuck in the mud). Furthermore, we were told, once we reached our destination by car, a 3-mile one-way hike would be required to get us to the
Hole-in-the-Wall. Being adventurous, Madeline and I decided to attempt the trip.
Sure enough, there was a long trip over prairie, hills, grassland, rocks, ledges and desert. Finally we reached the end of the road. There was a trail, which we assumed would lead us to our destination. We hiked up hills, over very dry grassland, and over some dirt roads. (Why we wondered, could we not drive down those roads?) Finally after about three miles, we approached a point where two red cliffs of the Red Wall joined in a bundle of rocks. At this point the trail petered out. This, as we discovered later was the Hole-in-the wall. At the time, Madeline was not convinced, so did not climb up on the rocks. I was positive this was the place, so I started climbing. However, my sense of balance has diminished to such a point, that I finally decided I had gone about as far as I safely could. There is an attached picture showing how far I got. However, the “trail” is much steeper than appears in the picture. We decided, we had probably done enough and began our journey home.
After we had gotten about a quarter of a mile away, the most astonishing thing happened. Buses and trucks went down the dirt road we had walked along, and drove to a parking lot and dislodged a huge group of people. Most of them just stood around, but perhaps 20 people then hiked to the Hole-in-the Wall, and climbed (rather nimbly, I am afraid) up the cliffs and rocks, I had attempted, to the top of the wall, and I suppose went on to see, what is said to be, a lush valley behind the Red Rock Wall. Later we concluded that
the dirt road was a private ranch road, which allows periodic guided tours in to view the Hole-in-the-Wall.
I suppose there must be other ways to get into the valley behind the Red Wall. From what I have read since our visit, I gather the location of the Hole-in-the -Wall, was fairly well know in Butch Cassidy's time and before. It was known as an outlaw hangout, and there were occasional gunfights and murders in the area. I can see how a horse trail could be carved out of the jumble of rocks, but I dont see how a horse could get up through it today, nor can I see how a herd of stolen cattle could be taken up through there.
Anyway, I have seen the Hole-in-the Wall, but did not quite make it through
the Hole to the other side.
While on our road trips in the Kaycee area we saw many, many pronged horned antelope grazing along the side of the road. In fact while driving, one had to keep close watch to be sure they did not dart out in front of the car (or RV on the Interstate). We also saw quite a few horses on open range. On Friday night we went to a local rodeo in Kaycee. It seemed to be a rather local affair, and I think many of the cowboys and cowgirls were trying to get experience, as many of the calves and steers did not get roped at all. There were special event for kids, which involved tying a handkerchief on the tail of a goat (for the youngest or throwing and tying a goat (slightly older kids0. it was a lot of fun.
We have continued our trip to the Bighorn Mountains. We are now at about 8,000 feet, and it is quite chilly at night and in the early morning. We are doing some hiking --- perhaps the most interesting so fat up Black Mountain to a Fire Station that is no longer manned. The flowers are in bloom, with the floor of the forest and the fields pretty much covered with purple lupines, and lots of other flowers too. Madeline’s favorite is the intensely blue forget-me-nots.
Yesterday, we drove down the west side of the mountain on a day trip to Bighorn Canyon. The canyon has largely filled with water, due to a dam on the north side of what now is a lake. The area about the canyon is quite dry and rocky. The high point of the trip was seeing big horn sheep. We saw mothers with their young. We understand the maless are all up in the mountains now. We were very excited to see the bighorns, as we have been trying to see them in the wild for several years!
I have been trying any number of years to visit the Hole in the Wall, to see where Butch Cassidy and his pals hung out. The first time I attempted it was years ago, but what with obvious four-wheel drive roads, and my Oldsmobile compact car, it was obvious that I was driving into an untenable situation.
This year, we now had four-wheel drive, high clearance, and lots of time, it seemed an opportunity to try again. It turns out, it is not an easy task to visit the Hole-in-the-Wall. Although everyone in the Kaycee area is very proud that this is Butch Cassidy country, and nearly every other motel, bar, or restaurant is either has Hole-in-the-Wall or Butch Cassidy in the name, actually few people can give you accurate directions how to get
there.
The first day we set out, with what we thought were clear directions. After driving about 30 miles on dirt road, we took a right on a road to "Hole in-the Wall' Campground. Well, after driving several miles on dirt roads, we found no campground and no Hole-in the-Wall. We finally drove by a rancher's wife getting mail from her mailbox. After inquiring we found that we were on the way to the Dull Knife Battlefield, but Hole-in the Wall was the other direction.
We reversed our way, and followed new directions. Our road passed through private property, with lots of warning sides to stay on the road. . The road deteriorated to a track, demanding four-wheel drive. We drove up the side of a mountain, avoiding deep ruts and high stones in the road. We eventually found a sign to the "Outlaw Cave". We got out and walked about, and finally peered down to the bottom of a canyon, where we could see a steep trail leading to a series of shallow caves. The Outlaw Cave - probably; ---- Butch Cassidy's Hole-in-the-Wall -certainly not. We drove about a bit, saw some
badly vandalized Indian pictographs in a shallow overhang, and started to return home. As we went down the mountain, we looked across the valley, where there was a long red cliff, extending some miles, both north and south. Thus we concluded was the Red Wall, where the Hole-in-the-Wall might be found. However, there was no public road or any other obvious to get to the Red Wall to search for Hole-in-the-Wall. By this time it became obvious that the location of the site in the atlas was in error.
Back to camp, we returned for further inquiries to get new directions. The new directions were that Hole in the Wall, could only be reached by an entirely different series of roads, which would entail a 40 to 50-mile trip (one-way), most of it on dirt road, with about 15 miles requiring a high clearance vehicle, 4-wheel drive, and not under any conditions to be attempted after a rain (would get stuck in the mud). Furthermore, we were told, once we reached our destination by car, a 3-mile one-way hike would be required to get us to the
Hole-in-the-Wall. Being adventurous, Madeline and I decided to attempt the trip.
Sure enough, there was a long trip over prairie, hills, grassland, rocks, ledges and desert. Finally we reached the end of the road. There was a trail, which we assumed would lead us to our destination. We hiked up hills, over very dry grassland, and over some dirt roads. (Why we wondered, could we not drive down those roads?) Finally after about three miles, we approached a point where two red cliffs of the Red Wall joined in a bundle of rocks. At this point the trail petered out. This, as we discovered later was the Hole-in-the wall. At the time, Madeline was not convinced, so did not climb up on the rocks. I was positive this was the place, so I started climbing. However, my sense of balance has diminished to such a point, that I finally decided I had gone about as far as I safely could. There is an attached picture showing how far I got. However, the “trail” is much steeper than appears in the picture. We decided, we had probably done enough and began our journey home.
After we had gotten about a quarter of a mile away, the most astonishing thing happened. Buses and trucks went down the dirt road we had walked along, and drove to a parking lot and dislodged a huge group of people. Most of them just stood around, but perhaps 20 people then hiked to the Hole-in-the Wall, and climbed (rather nimbly, I am afraid) up the cliffs and rocks, I had attempted, to the top of the wall, and I suppose went on to see, what is said to be, a lush valley behind the Red Rock Wall. Later we concluded that
the dirt road was a private ranch road, which allows periodic guided tours in to view the Hole-in-the-Wall.
I suppose there must be other ways to get into the valley behind the Red Wall. From what I have read since our visit, I gather the location of the Hole-in-the -Wall, was fairly well know in Butch Cassidy's time and before. It was known as an outlaw hangout, and there were occasional gunfights and murders in the area. I can see how a horse trail could be carved out of the jumble of rocks, but I dont see how a horse could get up through it today, nor can I see how a herd of stolen cattle could be taken up through there.
Anyway, I have seen the Hole-in-the Wall, but did not quite make it through
the Hole to the other side.
While on our road trips in the Kaycee area we saw many, many pronged horned antelope grazing along the side of the road. In fact while driving, one had to keep close watch to be sure they did not dart out in front of the car (or RV on the Interstate). We also saw quite a few horses on open range. On Friday night we went to a local rodeo in Kaycee. It seemed to be a rather local affair, and I think many of the cowboys and cowgirls were trying to get experience, as many of the calves and steers did not get roped at all. There were special event for kids, which involved tying a handkerchief on the tail of a goat (for the youngest or throwing and tying a goat (slightly older kids0. it was a lot of fun.
We have continued our trip to the Bighorn Mountains. We are now at about 8,000 feet, and it is quite chilly at night and in the early morning. We are doing some hiking --- perhaps the most interesting so fat up Black Mountain to a Fire Station that is no longer manned. The flowers are in bloom, with the floor of the forest and the fields pretty much covered with purple lupines, and lots of other flowers too. Madeline’s favorite is the intensely blue forget-me-nots.
Yesterday, we drove down the west side of the mountain on a day trip to Bighorn Canyon. The canyon has largely filled with water, due to a dam on the north side of what now is a lake. The area about the canyon is quite dry and rocky. The high point of the trip was seeing big horn sheep. We saw mothers with their young. We understand the maless are all up in the mountains now. We were very excited to see the bighorns, as we have been trying to see them in the wild for several years!
Pictures
1. Rodeo at Kaycee, WY
2. Dan halfway up path to Hole-in-Wall. It is much steeper than it looks!
3. Dan, on the trail to Hole-in the Wall (in the background)
4. Madeline saw a moose!
5. And the antilope play
6. Horses, but probably not wild
7. Destination -- the summit
8. Forget-me-nots, Madeline's favorite flower
9. Lupins
10. A female big horn sheep
11. More flowers on top of the Big Horn Mountains
These are all pictures by Madeline. she does a terrific job.
2. Dan halfway up path to Hole-in-Wall. It is much steeper than it looks!
3. Dan, on the trail to Hole-in the Wall (in the background)
4. Madeline saw a moose!
5. And the antilope play
6. Horses, but probably not wild
7. Destination -- the summit
8. Forget-me-nots, Madeline's favorite flower
9. Lupins
10. A female big horn sheep
11. More flowers on top of the Big Horn Mountains
These are all pictures by Madeline. she does a terrific job.
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